7 pitches. A new, fully bolted training route on the low-angle pillar of Kokkinovrachos, on the left of (and parallel to) MIGNONETTE. Both routes are also suitable for use by climbing schools.
K. Grafanakis, A. Theodoropoulos, I. Metaxotos 2022
Gear: A single 80m rope; 15 QDs; helmets.
Pitch 1: 5c 45m. Technical slab going leftwards in the 2nd half.
Pitch 2: 5c 20m. Slab/wall with good holds.
Pitch 3: 4b 15m. Easy ramp leading to the left of the big boulder.
Pitch 4: 6a+ 30m. Steep wall/crack. Stay on the line to avoid loose rock.
Pitch 5: 5c+ 25m. Interesting climbing on a slab and wall.
Pitch 6: 5c 25m. Pleasant slab.
Pitch 7: 5c 20m. Steep corner on orange rock with very interesting climbing.
Return: Abseil from the right of the rock face, 1x 30m, 1x 40m (check the guidebook).
Background
KAPI (A. Theodoropoulos, D. Karagiannis 1987) and THESSALONIKI 1 (L. Giannakoulis, M. Malakou 1986) were two traditional routes on the large vertical face of Kokkinovrachos. Afterwards there was no known repetition of these routes. Due to the growth of vegetation (bushes, etc.) on the vertical face, some parts of the routes in cracks and dihedrals were no longer possible to climb.
In 2015, J Jägermayer and R Schumann opened the route MIGNONETTE 5c+ 185m, which roughly follows the first 2-3 pitches of KAPI, then shares some sections on the ridge with THESSALONIKI 1.
In the Fall of 2022, Kostas Grafanakis, Aris Theodoropoulos, and Iakovos Metaxotos, opened KAPI REBORN. The new route starts with a new line on slabs on the first two pitches, shares pitch three (the easy ramp) with KAPI, continues with two new direct pitches (P4, P5), and ultimately rejoins the old KAPI for the dihedral of the exit.
To open the route, fixed ropes were used on the vertical face. Although the cleanest and most direct line was chosen, it still took several days of work to clear loose rocks and vegetation.
(Info courtesy of Climb Greece)
Velones kai Machairia is a new adventurous multi-pitch opened in the first week of January 2023 on the big face of Kokkinóvrachos, above Leonidio, between the routes Aramis and Ura Ka.
Grade: 7c+?
Length: 195m
Type: Trad, mixed
Equippers: Estel Pares, Pau Herrero (Spain).
Velones kai Machairia is partially equipped with stainless steel bolts. You need some trad gear for a repeat. The name is Greek for “needles and knives,” because of sharp rock throughout.
Double rope is highly recommended to avoid rope drag.
(Info courtesy of Climb Greece)
The development of sport climbing in Leonidio started about a decade ago. In this period, it has grown, gradually and sustainably, to comprise almost 2000 bolted routes for all levels. More than 1500 climbers visit our area every year. This may seem like a small number, but for a town of less than 4000 residents, it is significant. The Municipality of South Kynouria has been there from the start to facilitate, develop, and promote climbing in the area utilizing its full resources. Furthermore, it has hosted some of the best climbers in the world, who, together with the rest of the climbing community, have helped spread the word about Leonidio.
The rocks may well be the main attraction for climbers, but Leonidio has a lot more to offer. It is a traditional seaside town, yes, but with an air of sophistication, a distinct local character, and good vibes that instantly make climbers feel like they belong. It doesn’t take long for first-time visitors to immerse themselves in Leonidian culture, fall in love with the food, connect with locals and live the experience.
The feelings are mutual. For us Leonidians, climbing is no longer an unfamiliar trend, but an integral part of local life. We are excited to learn from climbers, be inspired by their enthusiasm, and—why not—start climbing ourselves. Climbing is fantastic, exhilarating!
Which brings us to the present moment. The Leonidio area is establishing itself as a worldwide climbing destination with exemplary organisation and a climbing infrastructure that keeps improving. The next step for our Municipality was obvious: facilitate the clear communication of all the information climbers need to climb safely, navigate the area effectively, and make the most of their Leonidio experience. To this end, we collaborated with the trusted team of Aris Theodoropoulos and Katie Roussos to create this guide. The goal is to paint as complete a picture as possible, so that climbers can plan ahead, familiarise themselves with all necessary climbing and general info about the area, and get a feel for it and its people. We are very proud of this effort and are confident that all climbers will support it. This will allow us to continue the sustainable development of climbing, and to ensure that it operates smoothly according to the highest safety and quality standards.
Respectfully,
Haralambos Lysikatos
Mayor of South Kynouria
December 2020
(Info courtesy of Climb Greece)
This year didn’t go exactly as planned. When we started working on the Leonidio guidebook in 2019, we expected months of fieldwork and longer months at our computers, but we didn’t expect a global pandemic. Nevertheless, keeping ourselves and everybody else safe, we continued to work—even though insecurity about the future often got the best of us.
Leonidio and Kyparissi had both properly appeared in print for the first time in our 2014 "Greece Sport Climbing: The Best Of” guidebook. Since then, and even more so after we expanded the coverage of both in our 2017 edition of “Greece,” we were repeatedly asked by local authorities and business owners to collaborate on a guidebook exclusive to the Leonidio area. The climbing had gained a lot of traction and was clearly adding great value to the community. Kyparissi, too, was coming into its own as a very special, if smaller, destination, one whose development we were actively involved with since day one. For years we hesitated to start this book. But by 2019, the time finally felt right.
There were a couple of reasons for that. Climbing in the area had grown, and was now “mature” enough to warrant its own high-quality guidebook. Furthermore, our involvement with the Leonidio climbing development, maintenance, and community became more active starting in 2016. This led to the formation of a close-knit team of climbers (and now friends) working together. Our collaboration allowed the quality of our fieldwork and the depth of information we collected to meet, if not exceed, the high standards of our guidebooks. Some of these friends are locals; others live in Leonidio part-time, or have relocated there permanently. This collaboration gave us the confidence that we could create a guide to be proud of.
Most of you may associate us with Kalymnos. We would rather simply be associated with Greece, this glorious little country we are lucky enough to call home. Our mission is to help its small communities by doing what we know best: safe, sensible climbing development and effective communication. If our guides demystify Greek climbing and inspire you to book your airfare, then it is mission accomplished.
As for giving back to the community, the Leonidio municipality has committed to using most proceeds from the guidebook for further development and route maintenance. Importantly, this ensures the local authorities will have an ongoing stream of revenue to use for climbing—a low-impact form of tourism which has already added immense value to Leonidio. Soon you will be able to read more about how these proceeds are used on the official climbing site of Leonidio (climbinleonidio.com).
As we prepare this guidebook for production our country has gone back on lockdown. Nobody knows when life will return to normal. But it will. And when it does, the cliffs will be here waiting for you, and us, to meet again under the eternal Greek skies.
Stay safe, surround yourself with good people, and see you soon!
Aris Theodoropoulos and Katie Roussos
December 2020
(Info courtesy of Climb Greece)
Photo: K.Grafanakis
Photo: K.Grafanakis
Grade: 7c+?
Length: 195m
Type: Trad, mixed
Equippers: Estel Pares, Pau Herrero (Spain).
Velones kai Machairia is partially equipped with stainless steel bolts. You need some trad gear for a repeat. The name is Greek for “needles and knives,” because of sharp rock throughout.
Double rope is highly recommended to avoid rope drag.
Drone photos taken during the opening of the route.
Drone photos taken during the opening of the route.