| 6 pitches, 6b obligatory, about 90 bolts for the route + abseils, 15 QDs. A lot of variety in pitch style and rock quality. The hard sections are short, and this route is not as sustained as URA KA or RAMISI ROCK. Pitch 1 (6a+ 40m): Start below and right of the roof; climb straight up and left. Some dubious rock. Pitch 2 (6c 25m): The most sustained pitch. Get the crux out of the way, then straight up on hard-to-find holds to R2 at a mini-ledge. Pitch 3 (6b 30m): Traverse 6m left on an easy “broken” ledge, then left still up a crack/corner. A superb wall with great holds follows, to a ledge on the left with R3. Pitch 4 (6c 30m): A mid-point crux, otherwise the grade is 6b+. Go up left, then a section on dubious rock, then straight up a wall. R4 on a ledge at right. Pitch 5 (6c 30m): A hard start on a compact wall with small gouttes d’eau, then another wall and easy climbing (5c) to a ledge with R5. Pitch 6 (6c 40m): A dream start up a corner, then a wall, then a last steep cruxy slab to the top. C + Y Remy, M Noverraz, C Simeon 2015 |
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