Kokkinovrachos
Kokkinovrachos, the massive red limestone face rising above the north side of Leonidio, is its trademark. The word kokkinovrachos literally means "red cliff". With a height of up to 250 meters, Kokkinovrachos features several bolted multi-pitches (some up to 8 pitches and 240 meters long) alongside single-pitch sectors.
(Info courtesy of Climb Greece)
Douvari
01    Tsamiko
4c
27 m
02    Bakaliko
5b
25 m
03    Akadimia
6b+
27 m
04    48 Ores
6a
25 m
05    Rammstein in Leonidio
6a+
30 m
06    Votsalo
5c+
30 m
07    Hilti maniac
5a+
30 m
08    Metallica
6a
33 m
09    Palikaria
5b+
30 m
10    Argo
5b+
30 m
11    Je suis Charlie
5b+
30 m
12    Cabu
5c
20 m
13    Holiday in Cambodia
5a
22 m
14    Holiday in Cambodia Ext
6a+
32 m
15    Rock Cleaner
5b
20 m
16    Rock Cleaner Ext
6a+
30 m
17    Margarita
5c
22 m
18    Margarita ext
6a+
32 m
19    Mini Einstein
5c
25 m
20    Mini Einstein Ext
6a
32 m
21    Rodomelo
4c
18 m
22    Rodomelo ext
6b
35 m
23    Mouria
4c
18 m
24    Mouria ext
6b
35 m
25    Myrtoon
4c+
18 m
26    Myrtoon Ext
6b
35 m
27    Kefala
5b
22 m
28    Kefala ext
6c
35 m
29    Samatas
5b
22 m
30    Samatas Ext 1
6a+
30 m
31    Samatas Ext 2
6c+
40 m
32    Zamanfou
5c
22 m
33    Zamanfou Ext
6c
40 m
34    Metaxotos
6a+
33 m
35    Metaxotos Ext
7a
40 m
36    Dokimos
6a+
25 m
37    Dokimos Ext
6b+
33 m
38    Faka
6a+
22 m
39    Faka ext
6c+
33 m
40    Erotas above the city
6a
22 m
41    Erotas above the city ext
6b+
33 m
42    Silk
5c
25 m
DOUVARI, an extension of sorts of sectors Orama and Rocspot, shares the description of those sectors: popular, easy and mid-grade, well-protected single pitches, fantastic views.
Exposure: South
Best period: November - March
Sun: All day
Approach: Take the road to Vaskina and turn right, on the second sharp curve, in a dirty road, towards the water tank of Leonidio. The path starts around 250m later, on the left and it is marked with red dots. about 25min.
Equipped by: Claude Remy
Hot Rock
01    Kurz
6a+
18 m
02    Kurz Ext
6c
35 m
03    Porno stars
6b
20 m
04    Porno stars ext
7b
28 m
05    Kairos
6c
30 m
06    Kalo
6b+
30 m
07    Draculine
6c
30 m
08    Poze
6b
28 m
09    Krassi
6b
30 m
10    Hot Rock
7a
25 m
11    Sympatiki
7a+
30 m
12    String climbing
7a+
30 m
13    Drasi
6c
25 m
14    Helen
6b+
25 m
15    Hotel Hatzi
6c+
30 m
16    OYK
7a
38 m
17    Commando
7a+
37 m
18    Mayor
6b
42 m
19    Iannis
6b+
20 m
20    Bugaboo
6c
20 m
HOT ROCK is one of the most popular crags in Leonidio, with exceptional views of Leonidio and the sea. Climbing on well-featured vertical grey and red rock and well-equipped routes by the Remy Brothers (2013).
Exposure: South
Best period: November – March
Sun: All day
Approach: Drive towards Vaskina. At the 6th sharp turn parc. Cross the couloir and follow the red marks to the big ledge - 10 min
Equipped by: Yves & Claude Remy
Hospital
01    Pretty Woman
5c
35 m
02    Efharisto
6a
40 m
03    Efharisto Ext
6a
50 m
04    Pipila
6a
40 m
05    Fuck 88
6a
40 m
06    Manolis Glezos
6a
40 m
07    Psila
6a+
40 m
08    Psila ext
6a+
50 m
09    Fanis
6a+
40 m
10    Saime (4 Pitches)
7a
95 m
HOSPITAL + RED ROCK, two sectors adjacent to each other, are somewhat above the hospital of Leonidio, to the right of the multi-pitches on the big cliff.
Exposure: South
Best period: November – March
Sun: All day
Approach: From Leonidio drive towards Vaskina. On the 2nd sharp turn follow the dirt road to the right, to the water tank. Follow the path with red marks towards the red wall
Equipped by: Claude Remy
Megakante
01    Megakante
8b+
40 m
02    The Abyss
8a+
40 m
03    Mega Misiaczek
?
30 m
04    O Kathenas to Violi tou
7a+
30 m
05    Deadline
6c+
30 m
Hard, athletic, and technical, on very high quality rock with routes from 6c+ to 8b+.
Exposure: Southeast
Sun: Until 16:00
Multi-Pitches
01    Pillar of Fire (8 Pitches)
6b
245 m
02    Tha ta poume (6 Pitches)
7a
195 m
03    Plug and Play (7 Pitches)
7a+
180 m
04    Fasting Therapy (5 Pitches)
8a
170 m
05    Aramis (6 Pitches)
8c
195 m
06    Ura Ka (5 Pitches)
6c+
185 m
07    Ramisi Rock (6 Pitches)
7a
180 m
08    Mira (8 Pitches)
6b
200 m
09    Mignonette (7 Pitches)
5c+
175 m
10    Aghios Lemmy (8 Pitches)
6b
205 m
11    Tanaïs (8 Pitches)
7a+
240 m
Exposure: South
Best period: November - March
Sun: All day
Approach: You walk directly to the base of the routes. From Leonidio, drive in the direction of Vaskina village. Park at the 1st left hairpin turn, about 1km from the main parking area of Leonidio (37.169773, 22.852698). Walk to the right for 200m (2-3 min) following a smooth dirt road. At the same level as "Pillar of Fire" (the pillar ending at the flag), leave the dirt road and walk uphill following the red marks and cairns. Walking time: 30-40 min, depending on the route.
Orama
01    Unfinished multi-pitch
?
-
02    Happy wife
6a
36 m
03    Happy life
6a+
35 m
04    Troumpas
6b
35 m
05    Soporo
6b+
35 m
06    Fokou
6b+
35 m
07    Dilemma
6b+
35 m
08    Telos
6b
40 m
09    Stamo
6b+
35 m
10    Stamo Ext
6c
40 m
11    Dionysos Plaka
6b
35 m
12    Dionysos Ext
6c
40 m
13    Soxa
6c
40 m
14    Nightfall
6b
35 m
15    Nightfall Ext
6c
40 m
16    Marauder
6b
35 m
17    Marauder Ext
6c
40 m
18    Septic Flesh
6b+
35 m
19    Takataferno
6b
30 m
20    Biri biri
6b+
28 m
21    Paskipos
6b+
35 m
22    Gomena
6b+
35 m
23    Makari
6b
35 m
24    Bekri mézé
6b
40 m
25    Bekri mézé Ext
6a+
55 m
26    For your eyes only
6b
40 m
27    Undress me
6b
40 m
28    Kapari
6b+
40 m
29    Hate yourself
6b+
40 m
30    Toula
6b+
40 m
31    Nia Vardalos
6b+
36 m
32    A rock fili
6c
34 m
33    Takounia
7a
34 m
34    Ochi 4e Reich
6a
25 m
35    Marneris
5c
25 m
36    Kosmos
5c
25 m
37    Plaka
6a
25 m
38    Tsitos
6a
25 m
39    Babis
5c+
30 m
40    I dont want to grow up
5c+
30 m
ORAMA, the main massive wall at the foot of Kokkinovrachos, starts at a comfortable platform and enjoys perfect views over the valley and down to the sea.
Exposure: South
Approach: From Leonidio follow the road going up to Baskina (Vaskina), on 2th big turn, parc. Follow the flat dirt road above Leonidio, 3-5 minutes than go up the steep nairrow path with red marks, 15 minutes, than go left via Douvari & Rocspot, total time 30 minutes.
Equipped by: Claude Remy
Redrock
01    Soft Parade
4b
20 m
02    Soft Parade Ext
6b
35 m
03    Masterplan
4c
20 m
04    Masterplan Ext
6a+
35 m
05    Kounelaki
5a
20 m
06    Kounelaki Ext
6a
30 m
07    Forget me not
5b
20 m
08    Forget me not Ext
6a+
35 m
09    Madri
5b
20 m
10    Madri Ext 1
6a+
40 m
11    Madri Ext 2
6a+
50 m
12    Vaskina
6a
30 m
13    Kalavryta
5c
20 m
14    Kalavryta Ext
6a+
38 m
15    Kosmas
5b+
20 m
16    Kosmas Ext
6a+
38 m
17    Distomo
6a+
40 m
18    GHML
6a+
40 m
19    Dream Team
6a+
40 m
20    Tsonta
6a+
40 m
21    Mega Pipe
6a+
40 m
22    Julia Alexandratou
6a+
40 m
23    Skyfall
6a+
40 m
24    Mitropoli
6a+
40 m
25    Protimo ta glyka
6a+
35 m
HOSPITAL + RED ROCK, two sectors adjacent to each other, are somewhat above the hospital of Leonidio, to the right of the multi-pitches on the big cliff.
Exposure: South
Best period: November - March
Sun: All day
Approach: From Leonidio drive towards Vaskina. On the 2nd sharp turn follow the dirt road to the right, to the water tank. Follow the path with red marks towards the red wall
Equipped by: Claude Remy
Rocspot
01    El Greco
6b
30 m
02    Michael Bachtis
6b
35 m
03    Higgs Boson
6c
35 m
04    Cern
7a
42 m
05    Kali Chronia
6b+
37 m
06    Makis
7a
37 m
07    Petra
7a
37 m
08    Kallinikos
6c+
37 m
09    NNGH
7a
37 m
10    Polar circle
6c
37 m
11    Rousféti
6b+
37 m
12    Tavli
6c
37 m
13    Milopita
6b+
37 m
14    Seferis
6b+
35 m
15    Amandine
6a+
35 m
16    Pomel
6a
30 m
Most of the routes start on an easy grey slab then the climbing gets harder on the steep part.
Exposure: South
Best period: November - March
Sun: All day
Approach: This new sector is the first wall left of Douvari.
Equipped by: Claude Remy