7 pitches. A new, fully bolted training route on the low-angle pillar of Kokkinovrachos, on the left of (and parallel to) MIGNONETTE. Both routes are also suitable for use by climbing schools.

K. Grafanakis, A. Theodoropoulos, I. Metaxotos 2022

Gear: A single 80m rope; 15 QDs; helmets.

Pitch 1: 5c 45m. Technical slab going leftwards in the 2nd half.
Pitch 2: 5c 20m. Slab/wall with good holds.
Pitch 3: 4b 15m. Easy ramp leading to the left of the big boulder.
Pitch 4: 6a+ 30m. Steep wall/crack. Stay on the line to avoid loose rock.
Pitch 5: 5c+ 25m. Interesting climbing on a slab and wall.
Pitch 6: 5c 25m. Pleasant slab.
Pitch 7: 5c 20m. Steep corner on orange rock with very interesting climbing.
Return: Abseil from the right of the rock face, 1x 30m, 1x 40m (check the guidebook).

Background

KAPI (A. Theodoropoulos, D. Karagiannis 1987) and THESSALONIKI 1 (L. Giannakoulis, M. Malakou 1986) were two traditional routes on the large vertical face of Kokkinovrachos. Afterwards there was no known repetition of these routes. Due to the growth of vegetation (bushes, etc.) on the vertical face, some parts of the routes in cracks and dihedrals were no longer possible to climb.

In 2015, J Jägermayer and R Schumann opened the route MIGNONETTE 5c+ 185m, which roughly follows the first 2-3 pitches of KAPI, then shares some sections on the ridge with THESSALONIKI 1.

In the Fall of 2022, Kostas Grafanakis, Aris Theodoropoulos, and Iakovos Metaxotos, opened KAPI REBORN. The new route starts with a new line on slabs on the first two pitches, shares pitch three (the easy ramp) with KAPI, continues with two new direct pitches (P4, P5), and ultimately rejoins the old KAPI for the dihedral of the exit.

To open the route, fixed ropes were used on the vertical face. Although the cleanest and most direct line was chosen, it still took several days of work to clear loose rocks and vegetation.

Photo: K.GrafanakisPhoto: K.Grafanakis