| 8 pitches, 6c obligatory. A weaving line above sector Órama. Climbing is varied, with steep walls, airy pillars, and pocketed overhangs. ATTENTION: There are big loose blocks around, and it is deathly dangerous to climb if there are climbers at the bottom. Climb it only during low season, with no other climbers around. Pitch 1 (6b 50m): Start with the route PLAKA, at sector Órama, then climb up a yellow corner and pockets. Pitch 2 (6b+ 40m): Sustained, on pocketed rock. Pitch 3 (7a 25m): Sustained overhang with pockets. Pitch 4 (6c+ 40m): An exposed pillar with obligatory hard moves. Use long QDs to avoid rope drag. Pitch 5 (3 15m): Traverse left in the cave (where eagles leave turtle shells after they’ve eaten them). Pitch 6 (7a 20m): Overhang with good pockets. Pitch 7 (7a 40m): A bouldery bulge to a grey pillar. At the last bolt, do not climb too high before crossing to the anchor (to avoid an unstable wedged block). Pitch 8 (6c+ 40m): A sustained vertical wall. Return: Not equipped for rappel. Check out return options on p. 189. P Mussato, J P Rio 2016 |
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